Addco Manufacturing of Linville, NC offers a rear stabilizer ("anti-sway") bar kit for A- and
X-body automobiles. It is kit 325, and it includes a 0.75 in (19 mm) bar. I installed the
polyurethane bushing version.
Addco kit 325 obtained from:
E & A Performance
(866) 201-7599 www.swaybars.com
The directions included with the kit are very straightforward. Anything that seems unclear will be obvious
once you are under the car. There are, however, some things to keep in mind:
You do need to remove the rear wheels, so you need two jackstands.
You should temporarily relocate brake and fuel lines while you drill holes in the frame. You do NOT want to puncture them!
You will need an extra-long 3/8 in drill bit to drill through the frame.
You may need to cut a little bit of the inner wheel well away so that you can get the drill to the frame. I needed to do it on the right side, but not on the left.
The shoulder bolts supplied with the kit for mounting the brackets to the frame have too much shoulder. You will need to use a 3/8-24 die to cut about 3/8 in more thread on them.
You should lubricate the D-bushings with silicone grease.
The outboard sides of the stabilizer bar's endlink-attachment eyes may rub against the axle's control arm. If this happens, you will need to cut away some of the bar.
The stabilizer bar before installation. NOTE: I had to use a rotary (i.e. Dremel) tool to shave off some of the metal on the outboard sides of the endlink attachement eyes. Without doing that, the stabilizer bar would grind against the axle's control arms.
The undercarriage of the car with the bar installed.
Close-up view of a mounting point on the axle. This is one of the D-bushings that should be lubricated with silicone grease.
The left arm of the bar.
The right arm of the bar.
A view of an entire endlink. In this kit, they are 5 in (127 mm).
A view of the top of the right side endlink and the angle bracket that connects it to the frame. This is also where I had to cut a little bit of the inner wheel well away.